Mathias Parent, Morey-Saint-Denis 2017

"I have followed Domaine A-F Gros for many years and I was pleased that their 2015 Richebourg performed so spectacularly at the blind tasting just a few weeks earlier. The winery is located close to the Beaune ring road, with vineyards equally dispersed between the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, reflecting their heritage from Pommard and Vosne-Romanée, respectively. I meet Caroline Parent-Gros, the sister of Michel Gros and Bernard Gros (of Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur), who is in charge of communication, and Mathias Parent. Parent is in his early 20s and shares winemaking duties with his father, François, though Mathias himself seems to guide the domaine’s direction these days. Parent also has a namesake négociant operation that is also reviewed here. He told me that he commenced the harvest on September 4 for the whites and four days later for the reds. “It was a warm vintage,” he explained. “We cropped at 35hl/ha for the Grand Crus and 45hl/ha for the Premier Crus.” There is a propensity to use relatively more new oak at this address, the Grand Crus raised in 90% new wood and even the Village Crus seeing a generous 40%, with all the cuvées de-stemmed. There is a modern sheen to these wines; however, I find that Parent is evolving into a fine winemaker and handles the oak better than when he began. Practice makes perfect. Though the Richebourg is a predictable high point, albeit one requiring a decade in bottle, there are plenty of tempting offerings elsewhere, especially the Pommard Les Pezerolles and a very commendable Beaune Les Boucherottes. Because these are fairly ripe, gutsy, oaky wines, they do need longer bottle age before they reach their drinking plateaus."

This sports both red and dark berry fruit on the nose with a savory note coming through as well as a violet note. This features rich dark berry/blueberry fruit on the palate along with exotic spice notes and a flash of mineral. The long finish brings sappy, lush fruit back with mouthwatering freshness.